El Hotel

The following was composed Jan 23:

Our dreams of lying on sun drenched beaches have been destroyed. We left Guerro Negro after a night filled with wind, cold, and rain and headed south - convinced that it would get warmer. Well, it has improved, from highs around 42* to highs around 52*. Not even close to sun bathing weather. People are walking around in thick coats, hats, scarves, and even gloves.

We are now in La Paz, about 4 hours north of Los Cabos. We spent the night here last night and then traveled south today around the tip of the peninsula and back. Neither of us had ever been to Cabo and we found it was not really what we were looking for. If we had been at one of the all inclusive resorts ordering margaritas and lazing around, I could have stayed, but this is not that kind of trip.

The hotels we have been staying in are typical Mexican hotels, not the tourist ones. The buildings here are built out of cinder blocks with re-bar supports and then covered in concrete. Some of the older ones include brick work, but most are of the cinder block variety and all aim at keeping the occupants as cool as possible with high ceilings, tile/linoleum floors, some with ceiling fans or old window box air conditioners, and of course, no insulation. It’s been really great because they are generally clean and cheap, but we are definitely glad we have our sleeping bags or we would freeze. The biggest problem we have had is finding cheap hotels with off-street parking in the bigger towns. When all you own is in your vehicle, you get a little nervous about where to leave it overnight.

Last night we paid 350 pesos (about 35 USD) for a one star hotel - a typical older, run- down place, but more expensive due to the fact that that it was in La Paz, which is the capital of Baja California Sur, and within walking distance of the malecon (waterfront).

Tonight we discovered something new, the “love hotel”. Love Hotels are not intended for typical tourists, but rather for secretive meetings. They are located on the outskirts of large towns and totally surrounded by a big wall. Each room actually has its own garage so that your car can not be seen by casual observers – perfect secured parking! This place is extremely nice by US standards as far as amenities, and quite luxurious after the places we have been staying.

They have both “regular” rates (about 5 hours worth) and nightly rates - we spent 450 pesos for the night (about 45 USD). I am writing this while lying in the new king sized bed. John is sitting in one of the leather chairs over at the table and watching cable TV (mostly in Spanish). There is a soft amber glow to the room caused by the recessed lighting in the ceiling dome.

The strangest thing is that they have this kind of wooden turnstile “window” where a delivery person can place your order and you can pay without them being able to see you. No mildew smell, no cold and muddy tile floors, no squeaky beds and screaming neighbors – I am feeling really spoiled.